Решил в прошедшие длинные выходные отдохнуть на Горьковское море. Места там красивые, а если заехать подальше, то народу очень мало. Кроме того, почти нет комаров.  

        Мне было известно отличное место недалеко от Сокольского. Вот туда мы и решили двинуть. Двенадцатого вечерком приезжаем-класс. Тишь да гладь. К сожалению, у меня нет фоток конкретно того места, где мы были, но есть фотка места рядом: 

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Очень красивые места, мы находимся дальше вправо по крутому берегу, метрах в ста. Высокий строевой лес, мощные сосны и елки, чудесные виды, море, и никого народу-райское место!

       Тринадцатого с утра была отличная погода. Позавтракав, поехали кататься на лодке в море. Попили пивка, покачались на волнах. Ближе к вечеру решили пообедать :) Зачаливаемся, лодку оставляю внизу, лишь чуть-чуть затаскиваю ее на берег и выкидываю на берег якорь. Якорь-это тормозной диск от Нексии, весит килограмм 10. Разжигаю костер, начинаем готовить еду. Идея была такая-вначале сварить химического быстросупчика, а потом уже и шашлычок забодяжить. Сидя на бережку, замечаем, что небо над морем хмурится-кажись дождь будет. Ладно, счас поедим супчика и в палатку укроемся-ничего страшного. Вода закипает, вываливаем в нее химикалии и, строго следуя инструкции, варим на медленном огне, плавно помешивая. Вскоре адское варево готово, разливаем по тарелкам, приступаем к приему пищи-кайф. А туча все ближе и ближе, и поднимается легкий ветерок. Вроде надо уже в палатку, но есть еще добавка супа-надо доесть, не выливать же. Да и солнышко светит. Поэтому продолжаем сидеть на бережку. Налив вторую миску супа, и начав ее есть, вижу, что туча уже совсем близко и надо хавать быстрее. Начинаю кушать быстро. И жить им, возможно, оставалось меньше минуты…

       Как и положено, черный лебедь приходит внезапно. Где-то вначале второй тарелки супа замечаю, что облака в туче движутся как-то странно, по кругу. Плоскость этого круга вертикальная, и вся картинка похожа на крутящуюся метлу, которой трактора снег и пыль чистят. Только метелка эта в полнеба. Я еще никогда такого не видел, думаю я. Банальная мысль после 2008 года, но правильная.

     Дальше счет идет на секунды. Все события этого абзаца заняли не больше минуты. Мы сидим на берегу, у меня в руке тарелка с горячим супом. Ветер начинает резко усиливаться. Пора валить, понимаем мы. Поскольку дождя пока нет, хочу завалить костер песком. Втыкаю лопату в землю, и замечаю, что по лицу мне больно бьет песок. Поднимаю голову и вижу, что деревья на краю обрыва сильно согнулись. Приходит мысль, что надо идти в лес, там ветер слабее. В обнимку начинаем бежать в лес. Пробежав метров десять, чувствую, что ветер уже очень силен, и продолжает усиливаться. Стоять в рост уже тяжело-сдувает. Одновременно начинается горизонтальный дождь. Поднимаю голову, и вижу, как дерево слева от меня толщиной сантиметров в 30 согнулось под 90 градусов. А не сломается ли, блять, оно, думаю я. И оно ломается, причем посередине. В башке включается компьютер, вычисляет, куда это упадет. Вроде чуть мимо. А ветер усиливается еще. Он уже настолько силен, что воспринимается не как ветер, а как стена. Почти невозможно вдохнуть, ветер очень силен. И становится еще сильнее-это чувствуешь нутром, а не разумом. В этот момент, я понимаю, что скорее всего, мы сейчас умрем. Все деревья вокруг накренились, куда спасаться? К машине!-приходит мысль. До нее метров 10. Рывком преодолеваем половину, справа начинает падать еще одно дерево. Не понятно, то ли в нас, то ли нет. Готов увернуться, но пролетает мимо. Прыгаем за машину, вокруг уже сплошной рев и треск. Мы за багажником, с подветренной стороны. Чувствую тяжелый удар по тачке, поднимаю голову-над головой пролетает вершина дерева (я потом ее поднять не смог, еле волоком тащил). Полностью охуевший, продолжаю смотреть вверх. На высоте метров 10 пролетает лодка, за ней на веревке болтается тормозной диск. Полный сюрреализм. Смотреть в сторону моря, откуда ветер, я не могу-мешает багажник, но вбок-что-то видно. А видно, что ломаются и падают все деревья вокруг-весь лес. Не знаю, сколько это длилось, но в какой-то момент деревьев просто не стало вообще. И ветер резко стих. Он стал всего-лишь обычный штормовой ветер, тот который ломает тополя в городах, уносит плохие крыши, и.т.д. Будем жить!!!-приходит животное ощущение. Пошел град размером сантиметра 2-3. Иногда некоторые градины попадают в нас. Это очень больно, да и хрен с ним-будем жить!!! А ветер стихает и становится очень холодно. Пар из рта, температура не больше десяти градусов. А было 25. Засыпав все вокруг, град кончается. Ветер уже просто сильный, высовываю голову из-за багажника, осматриваюсь.

      Вначале замечаю пару уцелевших деревьев, которые могут еще на нас упасть. Но они не толстые, и машина их выдержит. Поэтому принимаю решение залезть в машину-там как-то поютней. Ложимся на заднее сиденье, лежим. Наступает отходняк и начинает колотить. Минут через пять все совсем стихает и начинается просто небольшой дождь с умеренным ветром-осенняя такая погодка. Одеваемся в теплую одежду и выходим осмотреться. Да, мир изменился до неузнаваемости. Ощущение, что попал в съемки фильма-катастрофы. Я потом сделал много фоток, вот некоторые:

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Общий вид местности. На заднем плане-моя машина.

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Палатка. Хорошо что мы в ней не спрятались. Иначе были бы фаршем.

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Машина. Как ни странно, почти без повреждений. Видимо, попавшее в нее дерево скорее летело вершиной вперед по ветру, чем падало, и тачка его отразила чуть вверх, спася при этом нас. Причем удар был сравнительно мягкий-на вершинке много гибких зеленых веток. Но вмятинка на капоте сантиметров в 10 глубиной наводит на мысль, что попади это в нас-я бы сейчас не жил.

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Дорога, по которой мы приехали. Местами многорядные завалы метра по 2-3. До машины метров 50, но ее с высоты моего роста почти не видно.

 

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И даже после всего произошедшего это место удивительно красиво.

       Вся эта катастрофа произошла часов в шесть вечера тринадцатого июня. Потом почти все время шел дождь, холодно. Почти вся одежда в палатке, подобраться к ней трудно. Оделись кое-как, пошли по побережью к соседям (место на первой фотке). Как ни странно, у них тоже все живы. Четверо спрятались под деревянным столиком. Сосна 40 см  диаметром упала в полутора метрах от него. Трое пошли вглубь леса за грибами и в момент урагана были в мелколесье. Не пострадали, потом рассказывали, что треск и грохот были такие, что они подумали, что началась атомная война. В принципе, вся эта картинка действительно похожа на ударную волну от бомбы, как это показывают в хрониках.

     Дальше по берегу у мужика сломан хребет. Но жив. Вскоре приехали МЧС на лодке, его эвакуировали. Как я потом выяснил, фронт урагана был километров 10, а мы были в самом мощном его месте. В другую сторону по берегу километрах в двух была мегапьянка с музоном (Open Air какой-то, их там 30 машин было, говорят), там тоже нет трупов-несколько переломов ребер и ключиц. Им повезло-во первых ветер послабее был, т. к. завален не весь лес сплошняком, а лишь отдельные деревья, а во-вторых-высокого леса лишь узкая полоска вдоль берега, дальше безопасное мелколесье. Там, видимо, и спрятались все.

     Потом, наконец поняв, что мы действительно живы, принимаем решение жить дальше. Несмотря на дождь, развожу костер, потихоньку делаем шашлык. Иногда где-то падают недопадавшие сосны, хотя ветра особого нет. Но нам уже пофигу-около нас падать нечему. Часов в десять дождь прекращается, сидим у костра, едим шашлык, пьем пиво. К сожалению, нет водки. В душе опустошение-трудный денек выдался. Палатки больше нет-заваливаемся спать в машину.

      С утра просыпаюсь, иду посмотреть, как выбираться. Понимаю, что это невозможно. Масштабы произошедшего таковы, что около километра дороги завалено так, что там нельзя пройти. Возникают мысли о том, что машину придется оставить здесь-ибо цена ее вызволения много больше ее собственной цены. Но такого предательства я допустить не могу-она мне жизнь спасла, да и до этого спасала много раз. В таких полумрачных думах принимаю решение ехать домой без тачки, покупать бензопилу, брать отпуск и чистить завалы. Звоним друзьям, ложимся загорать-приедут за нами только вечером.

     Приходик какой-то мужик, причем из леса, где вообще не каждый пройти сможет. Это сразу внушает уважение, да и вообще чувствуется, что мужик толковый. Из лесничества, ищет пострадавших. Докладываю ему обстановку, идем осматриваться вместе. Нас таких два лагеря, мы и соседи. Завалены капитально, но лесник знает тайные тропы. Оказывается, метрах в двуста по побережью есть небольшая полоска мелколесья, и она не завалена. Надо только прорубиться эти двести метров вдоль берега, но там не сплошные завалы, поскольку около берега нет упавших вершинок с хвоей-только комли. Лесник едет за подмогой-приезжают четверо мужиков с тремя бензопилами. Кроме того, ребята из соседнего лагеря тоже вызывают подмогу-два человека с одной бензопилой. Начинаем работать-четыре пилы, четыре человека растаскивают. Работали часа три-четыре, прорубили коридор.

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Вот такая она-дорога жизни.

 

Дальше потихоньку выбираемся-и вот она, большая земля. Доезжаем до Сокольского, покупаем еды-и в Нижний. В принципе, отдохнули хорошо, воздух свежий, смолой пахнет :)

      Об ощущениях. Что меня в очередной раз поразило-нет страха. Ты в центре апокалипсиса, а страха нет. Вокруг рушатся толстенные деревья, любое из которых тебя просто раздавит, а ты вычисляешь пути отхода. Когда мы укрылись за багажником, вот тогда уже стало очень страшно. Почувствовал себя муравьем на фоне стихии. Никакой я не царь природы, так-блоха на теле планеты :)

      О работе госслужб. Сработали отлично, просто идеально. Даже не знаю, может закрыть рубрику «Новости путинлэнда»? :) Уже через минут сорок после катастрофы к нам пришел первый МЧСник. Он шел по побережью и искал пострадавших. Видимо, выяснив обстановку, он вызвал катер, который эвакуировал пострадавших. Потом, часа через два, пришел другой МЧСник и, внимание, гаишник! Предложили оформить справку для КАСКО. Поскольку каски у меня нет, то я отказался, а зря-уже вчера долго объяснял на посту на въезде в город, что я не человека сшиб, а попал в ураган. И уже на следующий день лесники, не жалея себя,  вытащили нас оттуда вместе с машиной, хотя на мой взгляд, это было просто нереально. В общем, огромное всем им спасибо!   

317 Responses to “Райское место или 13 июня-мой второй день рождения”

  1. Zhanna Nemtsova Says:

    тоже там была в выходные,в Филино

  2. madm Says:

    C днем рождения!

  3. admin Says:

    Спасибо :)

  4. admin Says:

    Кстати, про скорость ветра. Левое зеркало у тачки загнуло ветром. Я на ней ездил 160 по спидометру, ничего не загибало. 160км/ч это 44 метра в секунду. Таким образом, скорость ветра была более 44 м/с. Насколько я знаю, все что больше 30 м/с уже считается ураганом.

  5. Krusnik02 Says:

    Супер! Такое реально бывает раз в жизни.
    Ну конечно повезло что ничего не случилось. Или бы сейчас читали “Известного трейдера засосало порывом ветра в смерчь и выбросило за 30 КМ от Новго Уренгоя без одежды и документов”.

    Я кстати в Ураган под парусом катался :) Перевернуло но не порвало.

  6. admin Says:

    Нет, я бы не назвал это “Супер”. В этом не было никакого драйва, это не волны в море, где очень многое зависит от тебя лично. В той ситуации, куда попал я, от меня зависело очень мало, это просто игра слепого случая, что мы живые. Просто повезло, что изначально была небольшая, метров в пять, прогалинка между деревьями, и почти все деревья легли параллельно этой прогалине, оставив для нас “пятачок жизни”. А те, которые должны были упасть на нас, упали на машину. А типичная картина на многие сотни метров вокруг–это рисунок “Дорога, по которой мы приехали”, где человеку просто невозможно остаться в живых ни при каких его действиях.

  7. Анатолий Says:

    Так это был смерчь?

  8. admin Says:

    Нет, не смерч. Смерч–это когда ось врашения вертикальна, то есть воздух крутится как юла. То, что видел я–это движение облаков по кругу, ось которого горизонтальна и параллельна береговой линии. Как крутящаяся метелка у снегоуборочной машины.

  9. madm Says:

    Как считаете, в воде вероятность выжить была выше? Если вариантов добраться до мелколесья в принципе нет. Про лодку с диском от нексии помню, но у человека парусность меньше да и зайти по грудь примерно можно.

  10. admin Says:

    Да кто ж знает? Не знаю. Я вижу некоторые проблемы при нахождении в воде в такой сильный ветер. Во-первых, просто можно задохнуться. Даже стоя на земле были трудности с дыханием, и не только из-за ветра, но и из-за воды, гонимой этим ветром. На воде этот эффект должен быть больше. Далее, я не знаю, какие были волны, но думаю–большие. Может просто убить волной об берег. Кроме того, молнии. В воде они очень опасны. Перевешивают ли эти опасности нахождение в лесу? Не знаю. И проверять не хочу :)

    Самым идеальным вариантом было бы лечь в паре метров от кромки берегового обрыва головой от моря и лежать. Все деревья валились от моря, поэтому деревом бы не зацепило. Сдуть тоже бы не сдуло–парусность у лежащего человека мала. Но для этого надо знать будущее–а я его не знаю :) Непосредственно до катастрофы это выглядело просто как гроза, а в грозу быть близко к берегу неправильно–все молнии летят именно в береговую линию.

  11. Mag Says:

    В воде, скажу вам, тоже не весело:
    http://www.nn.ru/community/tourism/tourism/?do=read&thread=1155588&topic_id=23378958

  12. Miha Says:

    Это было около деревни Рыжково?

  13. admin Says:

    Это было вблизи деревни Выделка.

  14. Isem Says:

    А куда же лодка делась? Нашли ее или нет?

  15. p Says:

    Ураган становится летней традицией..
    вот прошлый год, подмосковье, Руза.
    http://picasaweb.google.com/proler/20090615Wind

  16. admin Says:

    Лодка валялась в лесу неподалеку. Ей кранты–два из трех отсеков продырявлены. Тормозной диск не отвязался и валялся рядом. Так что я получил бонус–не пришлось втаскивать диск на берег, сам прилетел.

  17. Zulus Says:

    Мы в этот день были на Рыбинке. Там было послабее, но лодки тоже летали. И началось где-то часа в 2 дня. К счастью, мы успели даже лагерь почти полностью собрать, увидев приближение туч. Но дорога от Рыбинска до Ярославля вся была завалена сломанными деревьями. А вращающиеся тучи, после приближения которых налетает ураган, видел в 2005 году на реке Кострома.

  18. admin Says:

    Здесь это было часов в 6 вечера. Я так понимаю, это разные грозовые фронты. От Рыбинска до Сокольского по прямой, я думаю километров 350-400, поэтому если бы это был один один и тот-же фронт, то у него скорость должна была бы быть 100км/ч. То, что видели мы, с такой скоростью не приближалось, там все плавно было.

  19. horse games Says:

    Лодка валялась в лесу неподалеку. Ей кранты–два из трех отсеков продырявлены. Тормозной диск не отвязался и валялся рядом. Так что я получил бонус–не пришлось втаскивать диск на берег, сам прилетел.

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